One of the oldest wineries in India, Grover vineyards (GZ) was set up in 1988 with 1992 as their first successful vintage. With more than 200,000 cases under production today, it stands second in volume to Sula, which is by far the leading and the most visible brand across India at present. As updated by the company officials, over the years, substantial investment has gone into Grover Zampa by way of merger with Vallée de Vin based out of Nashik (owned by Ravi Jain, Deepak Roy and Neeraj Deorah) in 2012 which along with Grovers hold 28% stake in the company (the name Zampa was added on to Grovers after this merger, the name taken from Vallée de Vin’s, Zampa range of wines). This association has paved way for the company to expand into Maharashtra and more importantly access the influential market of Mumbai (which is about 3 hours drive south west towards the coast), apart from Nandi Hills in Karnataka (Deccan plateau) where historically they have always had a dominating presence. Another 19% stake is owned by Reliance and in 2016, Singapore based Visvires Capital run by Ravi Vishwanathan acquired 32% stake in the company (French wine maker Edouard Labruyère has also gained access to investment through this route also). The balance is held amongst smaller investors. Roughly 800,000 litres of wine are processed at present and with additional unused capacity of tanks, this can be taken to up to 1,500,000 litres in the coming years.

VINEYARDS AND TERRAIN

According to Hemant Waluj, the chief winemaker of GZ in Igatpuri (Nasik), where GZ houses some of its owned vineyards and a purpose built winery, “Soils in Nashik are very suited for viticulture due to the red clay (murum) interspersed with sand which brings in a desirable level of porosity, making the soils free draining. Coupled with some deceptively steep gradients of upto 300-500 metre that are not uncommon, the region of igatpuri is very viable for wine grape growing bringing in refreshing fruit flavours balanced with notable acidity.” Growing season starts in October. The timing works well as sparkling wine grapes are harvested first in January, followed by the whites in early February. Reds are picked depending on the grape type and maturity levels between the middle of February to March. The vintage pattern follows the southern hemisphere that may confuse some of us. This is because the summer months are too hot to reap quality grapes and this time is used to prune and budding is consciously restricted to give the plants a break from the fruiting cycle. Grover is one of the few vineyards aiming for sustainable viticulture using selective harvesting methods and working towards responsible vinification practices in India. Here is a video below taken at Grover Zampa in Nasik, where I talk with the wine making team, Hemant Waluj and Parikshit Teldhune along with Sushant Soni from the Hospitality Team

Grover Sauvignon Blanc, Art Collection 2017

An easy drinking style of sauvignon blanc with lemon and grassy notes, slightly green on the nose but softens out on the palate. Very zingy in personality and fruit forward. (84/100)

Vijay Amritraj Reserve Collection White, 2017 (Tank Sample)

Viognier 2017 (tank sample)

Priced at INR 1500 (~£17.50), this is one of the premium range of GZ wines where quality is notable. Selective harvesting is done and only the best quality grapes go into the making of this wine. Fermented in oak barrels and ageing for upto 9 months in barrels (20% French Oak and 80% American oak). Ripe yellow stone fruits peach and apricot on the palate with mouthwatering acidity which is very well balanced with the fruity style of the wine, the texture is subtly rich without being overly done. A well-crafted viognier maintaining focused and lean acidity! (91/100)

La Réserve Blanc 2017  (Blend of Sauvignon Blanc & Viognier)- Tank Sample

Priced at INR 1000 (~GBP 11.50), there is overt tropical expression with mango, pineapple and apricot fruit notes, the acidity is definitely a notch above VA Viognier but the palate has rich and creamy texture and the wine is full bodied making it a strong contender to be paired with wholesome foods. (91/100)

Zampa Soiree Brut 2015 Brut 100% Chenin Blanc

An elegant sparkling wine made in the traditional champagne methods with impressive buttery and creamy texture, energetic bubbles and a vibrant fruit fuelled expression. The bubbles give way to subtle toasty finish. (residual sugar 8-10 g/l) (89/100)

Zampa Soire Brut Rosé 2014

Made of out of Shiraz grapes, the pressing is done very gently for a maximum of an hour to gain the light pink colour. This pressing is enough to  bring out the rounded, creamy raspberry fruit notes. The acidity is noticeable but lower than the Soiree Brut, tannins are gentle but not imminent. Biscuity notes are vivid and the bubbles are vigorous and persistent. Would go well with lamb kebabs and meaty nibbles for aperitif. Priced at INR 1,200. (88/100)

(I was also informed that second and more consistent pressings of the wine are added into the red table blend and the last press goes into the table range of rosé get the last of the pressings.)

GZ, Art Collection Shiraz Still Rosé

Consistent and good typicity with red forest berry notes. There is a hint of floral personality and the wine has a delicate, crowd pleaser appeal to it. (83/100)

La Réserve Red 2016 (80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Shiraz)

Started off as one of the first wines of Grover Zampa, safely can be counted as their most reliable and quality wine, consistently increasing in character and finesse over the years and improving in age worthiness as the vines take shape and root themselves into the Indian terroir.

The wine expresses ripe red plum and cherry character with some hints of black currants. The shiraz although only 20% adds a lot of character to the wine, with its rich leather notes and adding a gentle polished structure. Tannins are what make this wine very distinct. Very ripe, dense yet smooth as silk, they make this wine an instant hit! Declared by Steven Spurrier in 2005 as the best New world wine, GZ have ensured that they keep up with the reputation year on year. Priced at INR 1000, this is a highly enjoyable and aromatic expression of this blend showing style and finesse, at the same time, captivating the palate with an elegant, approachable appeal. (89/100)

Vijay Amritraj Reserve Collection, Red 2016

(80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Shiraz and 1% Viognier)

Select plots are chosen for this wine. A soft and rounded aromatic expression with a good mix of red fruit and black cherry notes, there is marked acidity backed with fine and polished tannins. Oak flavours are mellow and integrate well into the fruit flavours giving just the soft edge of the vanilla, smoke and toasty character giving this wine a complex and long finish. Rhone appeal is visibly evident here. Elegant wine making skills gone into this blend. (91/100)

Chéne Grande Reserve 2015

(Shiraz 65% and Tempranillo 35%)

With production limited to no more than 500 cases, this is the top end of the range priced at INR 1,750 (~£20).  Select hand-picked grapes go into this wine. Aged for upto 15 months in select French barrels, this is an ostentatious red with ripe and baked blackberry and black plum backed with smoke and toast, black pepper, liquorice, cinnamon and cloves. Well defined with robust ripe silk tannins, the finish has chocolate and coffee beans. Full bodied concentrated and dense, this is a rich wine to be paired with a meat laden dinner.  (93/100)